Blog from the USA I: I've Got the Power (to stop traffic)
I am certain now that this was not a dream. This was an actual incident that happened to me yesterday at the Miami International Airport. Listen close.
I left the airport terminal to walk to the little park outside of Terminal E. To get there I needed to cross the four lanes of chaos where cars, vans and taxis leave off departing passengers. As I put my foot in the white-striped crosswalk a miracle happened. The cars stopped! Not one, all of them! They stopped for no other reason than to let me cross. I am not making this up.
Perhaps you have to live in Bolivia to understand the miracle of this. In Cochabamba, my friends, cars do not stop for pedestrians. Never. Ever. Okay, once around 2002 it happened to me but I think one exception in eight years does not change the rule. In fact, the actual rule seems to be speed up and aim at pedestrians, as if it were a point system of some kind. I even got knocked down once by a white Toyota (90% of the cars in Cochabamba are white Toyotas, as if Toyota had some kind of point system).
Now, there may be pathological reasons that I am so breath taken by the fact that the cars in the Miami Airport stopped for me. I confess, I may have a car-stopping obsession that I can trace back to when I was seven years old living in Whittier, California and the powers that be (God, for all I knew then) installed brand-spanking new traffic signals at the corner where I lived, complete with little buttons that made the light change and set off a pedestrian go signal. I discovered, to my great delight, that a certain size stick would smash the button into permanently-pressed mode and, without lifting a finger and from the deniability of my front yard, I could make four lanes of drivers screech to a maddening halt every 85 seconds. It was glorious, really.
I guess I am a pedestrian at heart. It has been 21 years since I got my first driver's license and in those 21 years I have only owned a car for 8. Not bad for someone who lived in California most all of that time. A Californian without a car is like a Bolivian politician without his own political party, a rare breed.
Here in Washington, DC this morning, while out for a run, I saw something even more amazing in pedestrian power. At the traffic lights they have a little timer that tells pedestrians exactly how long they have before the light changes and you become fair game for any car that wants to make road kill out of you. That is courteous. In Cochabamba there are no timers involved. If you step off the curb they assume you are a volunteer.
So there you have it. The US is great nation because, unlike so many in the world, you have 45 seconds to cross the street and in that moment, pedestrians are king. More powerful than a Hummer, more than a limousine with diplomatic plates. All this and bagels with cream cheese. Just some of the cultural advantages in the world's lone superpower.
I left the airport terminal to walk to the little park outside of Terminal E. To get there I needed to cross the four lanes of chaos where cars, vans and taxis leave off departing passengers. As I put my foot in the white-striped crosswalk a miracle happened. The cars stopped! Not one, all of them! They stopped for no other reason than to let me cross. I am not making this up.
Perhaps you have to live in Bolivia to understand the miracle of this. In Cochabamba, my friends, cars do not stop for pedestrians. Never. Ever. Okay, once around 2002 it happened to me but I think one exception in eight years does not change the rule. In fact, the actual rule seems to be speed up and aim at pedestrians, as if it were a point system of some kind. I even got knocked down once by a white Toyota (90% of the cars in Cochabamba are white Toyotas, as if Toyota had some kind of point system).
Now, there may be pathological reasons that I am so breath taken by the fact that the cars in the Miami Airport stopped for me. I confess, I may have a car-stopping obsession that I can trace back to when I was seven years old living in Whittier, California and the powers that be (God, for all I knew then) installed brand-spanking new traffic signals at the corner where I lived, complete with little buttons that made the light change and set off a pedestrian go signal. I discovered, to my great delight, that a certain size stick would smash the button into permanently-pressed mode and, without lifting a finger and from the deniability of my front yard, I could make four lanes of drivers screech to a maddening halt every 85 seconds. It was glorious, really.
I guess I am a pedestrian at heart. It has been 21 years since I got my first driver's license and in those 21 years I have only owned a car for 8. Not bad for someone who lived in California most all of that time. A Californian without a car is like a Bolivian politician without his own political party, a rare breed.
Here in Washington, DC this morning, while out for a run, I saw something even more amazing in pedestrian power. At the traffic lights they have a little timer that tells pedestrians exactly how long they have before the light changes and you become fair game for any car that wants to make road kill out of you. That is courteous. In Cochabamba there are no timers involved. If you step off the curb they assume you are a volunteer.
So there you have it. The US is great nation because, unlike so many in the world, you have 45 seconds to cross the street and in that moment, pedestrians are king. More powerful than a Hummer, more than a limousine with diplomatic plates. All this and bagels with cream cheese. Just some of the cultural advantages in the world's lone superpower.

The Democracy Center, based in Cochabamba Bolivia and San Francisco California, works globally to advance human rights through a combination of investigation and reporting, training citizens in the art of public advocacy, and organizing international citizen campaigns. If you like the Blog, consider becoming a subscriber to The Democracy Center's free e-newsletter by sending us an email at 
33 Comments:
You should come to Seattle - here, many cars actually follow the rule stating that if there is a corner/intersection but no crosswalk, pedestrians have the right of way. That means that there can be a main arterial road through the city with no lights, no crosswalks, and if I am walking down a cross street and arrive at a corner of the arterial road, cars cruising along that road will suddenly halt and wait for me to cross! It is incredible! As a driver, my adherence to this rule is spotty, I must admit, but it's improving. Few pedestrians will step right out assuming drivers will stop, but many drivers do stop.
Of course, the rules limiting pedestrians are also strict, and not only does Seattle PD ticket for jay-walking, but I even got a $45 ticket for crossing, in a crosswalk, against a light. The nearest vehicle was a slow-moving motorcycle about a block away, so, being an adult, looking both ways, I could see it was safe to cross. I did not see, at that distance, that it was a police motorcycle.
Weirdly, as the cop wrote me the ticket, he explained how to mitigate it by mail and assured me that the fine would almost definitely be reduced just for going to the trouble. In my mitigation, I mentioned that I had recently returned to the US from Bolivia, where people cross whenever and wherever they can, and that before that I lived in the Netherlands, where crosswalks are always sacred, and anyone standing in one at any time is untouchable. I think the fine was knocked down to five bucks!
Miami is always a funny place for those first little reminders of the differences between Bolivia and the US. I can remember being in a bathroom at the airport there and suddenly panicking, and silently cursing whatever idiot had forgotten to put a trash bin in the stall, before finally realizing that I could flush paper down the toilet again. Ah, the spoils of empire.
...you made me laugh out loud; thanks!
btw, been visiting for a couple months now & enjoy your blog. keep up the good work!
Nuevo meta-blog bolviano. Una página para reunir a todas las bitácoras escritas por bolivianos o desde Bolivia. Pasen y vean que también es su casa:
http://blogsbolivia.blogspot.com/
A new meta-blog from bolivia. A web page to meet all bolivian blogs or written from bolivia. Come on and see, this is your house tooo.
Greatly enjoyed this post, Jim. Reminds me of the time I naively thought it would be okay to cross a street in Cochabamba choked with traffic just inching along. The driver of a white toyota (of course!) mini bus made sure to accelerate just enough to tag me pretty good. I think there really is a point system - maybe extra for tagging gringos. :)
To everyone here (and I truly think this includes people of all political stripes who read and comment here): At the height of the most recent conflicts in Bolivia, I argued passionately that there are better methods available for waging struggles for social change than those often employed in Bolivia. I referred to Gene Sharp and the Albert Einstein Institution. Well, the Institution needs our help. Rather than go into the details here, I refer you to a longer post on my own blog:
http://danmoriarty.blogspot.com/2005/09/if-you-support-nonviolent-action-to.html
I strongly urge everyone here to at least check it out, and hopefully even offer some support.
I don't think it's an exaggeration to say that a donation to the Albert Einstein Institution today could prove an investment in a surer path toward sustainable, just peace for Bolivia (or any other country) in the future.
(PS Yes, Japaza, Bolinica, et al., even you! I dare say there is a good chance the picture of Yulia Tymoshenko at the top of the website to which Japaza constantly links here would not be there were it not for the collaborative work of Gene Sharp and the folks at www.aeinstein.org)
Maybe Bolivia needs a day without cars because they are so pedestrian unfriendly. The U.S. does not, therefore, need this kind of day.
A day without cars in Bolivia? But they have several already... Any day for "civic action" when all social forces come together in a massive strike will entirely shut down the city... In fact that's how I found the beauty of a day without cars, with kids playing safely in the streets, people taking leisure strolls... a real awakening to the overwhelming power given to the cars in our "modern" societies.
i love this post, it's just so true! my last trip to Cochabamba i was constantly teased by my bolivian friends for crossing the street like a foreigner -- so they tried to teach me the art of predicting the traffic in order to avoid any accidents. it must just be instinct to them since they never bothered to look before crossing yet never once came close to being hit!! just another advantage of knowing the city i guess!
Great write up! Reminds me of my experience when I tried to drive in India and I was'nt even walking!
hello! happy to hear "we" impressed you in miami. we do not get a lot of things right. but, we are trying to improve. i hope your next stay in miami is filled with even more extraordinary and pleasant surprises. great blog, cane accross it by chance. regards,
attis
:)
Stepping off the plane in Portland, fresh from India a few months ago, this was the EXACT thought that crossed my mind.
Traffic stops. And the bagels and cream cheese :)
But then again, my friend, if they didn't allow such 45 seconds in life, the whole balance of power would dissapear.
hypothesis: in order to have control, you must give some control.
Will keep coming back to this blog.
Yours,
The Wizard of Odd.
I really enjoyed this post.
But guess what, Im dying laughing!! I work at the MIA airport. I have worked there since 1990! And guess what? That was that 5%, maybe less, probability that they would stop for you.
And to back-up some of the comments I read, the times that I have been to the Northwest, I have definitely experienced a disparity in manners, not only by ceding the way to pedestrians, but in many other common sense daily dealings.
My home country is India and i have been in the US for a couple of months now and i had the same feeling of power of owning the road when i cross and when cars stop for me to cross by. Back in India it was always the race between me getting to the other end vs a car hitting me.
I dont know whether it is courtesy or the fear of tickets, lawsuits etc that stops people from running me over. I am sure it would be quite irritating for drivers during rush hour to have to wait for a sloppy pedestrian like me to cross by.
wow, really cool running into your blog here, i am from bolivia (but raised here) too and and can recall the last time i went to visit and being amazed at just the opposite..in fact it was like the wild, wild, west..i remember thinking..wow, NYC has nothing on La Paz..lol
Your blog makes me laugh, thanks! I'm a french 17 years old student and I'm having a 3 hours english exam on tomorrow. I noted down lots of words and expressions I didnt know to remember them ;-) so, i'll tell you the grade I get! lol. However, I feel amazingly stupid after all those words I had to pick up in my french-english dictionary. Have a nice and keep on writing this blog =) bye
Hello there! this is so true, It also applies to all of latin america. Pedestrians are not kings there. Oh but if you're driving a car and you're a woman, they do let you switch lanes no problem. Its just a matter of stretching out your hand and thats it, specially if she's good looking.
I live in Miami, and it's true about the airport. Cars actually stop, but there are also a lot of police everywhere making sure that no car is parking or standing in the loading (unloading) areas for more than 10 seconds. This also means that most of the drivers obey the speed limit in the airport terminal area, which is 10 or 15 miles an hour. However, if you go ANYWHERE ELSE in Miami, you take your life into your own hands. I lived in Bogota, Colombia, for 11 years and the drivers here drive exactly the same. I am always surprised when a driver stops to allow me to cross while he/she is turning left in front of me...never happens in Bogota, and rarely happens in Miami.
While living in Colombia, I always wondered why this was true, and I concluded that the people who had cars first were the upper-class with money, so any "peon" or "indigena" who was crossing the street in front of them had to yield to the "patron" in such a classist society.
well, i've never read a whole entry on that subject: living in the US all my life, i guess i just expect cars to stop for you if you cross the street.
last week, i was walking home from school and began to cross the street like i usually do. however, the thing that gives the green signal to walk was still on red, but i knew it was my turn because the cars were going in the same direction as me. so i started walking, but this car all of a sudden started honking at me. he was even yelling at me, some old geezer who had probably never even been at this intersection that i had been walking across 5 times a week for the past year! whocould ever say some guy making a right turn has the right-of-way over a pedestrian? i yelled back, saying "its my turn". i was tempted to give him the finger, but thought better of it since cops frequent the area and i could get a ticket...
lol thats my little story...but if i ever see the guy again i'll give him the finger this time... :)
oh and p.s great blog
"...If you step off the curb they assume you are a volunteer."
That was hilarious.
You have some very clever - and some very insightful material.
I just got back from Rome, where traffic is definitely more anarchic than here in Madrid, or so I thought. There I was at rush hour, standing in front of the Victor Emanuel monument and wondering how on earth was I ever going to get across something like six lanes of traffic without a stop light. Lo and behold, I watched the natives and all they did was step out, albeit carefully, and the cars, they did stop! It was amazing. I tried it, it worked. I tried it lots, all over Rome, it always worked, with perhaps one or two harried drivers neglecting to follow what seemed to be the generally accepted rule.
Unbelievable! This would not happen in Madrid. No way.
Having spent a couple of months living in Potosi, I can relate to what you are saying - I had the same experience when we returned to denmark too!
Cheers,
Teamtrev
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